A toilet that runs — constantly, intermittently, or briefly every 10 minutes — wastes a surprising amount of water. 200–400 gallons a day is a typical "silent runner." A more dramatic leak can waste a lot more. Salem water bills reflect this quickly.
The good news: 80% of running toilets come down to one cheap part that you can replace yourself in two minutes.
The 30-second diagnosis
Lift the tank lid (the rectangular ceramic cover on the back of the toilet). Look at the flapper — the rubber disc at the bottom of the tank covering a round opening.
Drop a few drops of food coloring into the tank water. Wait 15 minutes without flushing. If colored water appears in the bowl, your flapper is leaking. This is the cause 80% of the time.
If no colored water appears but the toilet still runs or refills on its own, the problem is somewhere else (fill valve, chain, or flush valve seat — covered below).
The 2-minute flapper fix
Any hardware store in Salem carries universal flappers for $8–$15. You need no tools.
- Shut off the water to the toilet — the valve on the wall behind or below the toilet, turned clockwise.
- Flush the toilet to empty the tank.
- Unhook the old flapper — it clips onto two pegs on either side of the flush valve at the base of the tank. The chain detaches from the flush lever.
- Attach the new flapper — reverse the above. Clip it onto the pegs, hook the chain to the flush lever with just enough slack to fully close when not flushing.
- Turn the water back on and let the tank fill. Flush once to confirm it seals.
That's it. 80% of running toilets fixed for under $15.
If the flapper didn't fix it: the other 20%
Chain catching under the flapper. The chain between the flush lever and the flapper should have just a tiny bit of slack when at rest. Too tight and the flapper can't fully close; too loose and it bunches under the flapper. Adjust the length.
Corroded flush valve seat. The plastic or brass ring that the flapper seals against can develop mineral buildup or pitting. A green scouring pad and elbow grease smooths it. If it's pitted badly, the whole flush valve needs replacement (harder — usually a $40 part and a plumber hour).
Fill valve won't shut off. The fill valve is the tall vertical assembly on the left side of the tank. If the float doesn't rise to the shutoff level, the valve runs continuously. Signs: water continuously going into the overflow tube (the vertical tube in the middle of the tank). Fix: usually a new fill valve, about $20 and a 20-minute DIY job.
Water pressure too high. Household pressure over 80 psi can stress fill valves and cause weird refilling behavior. Salem's pressure usually runs fine but spikes happen. A pressure gauge at any outdoor spigot shows your household pressure. If it's over 80 psi, a pressure reducing valve (PRV) is worth having a plumber install.
Old/obsolete toilet. Some 1980s and earlier toilets have proprietary parts that are genuinely hard to find. Sometimes it's more economical to replace the whole toilet ($150–$350 for a mid-range model, plus installation) than to source obsolete parts.
When it's worth calling a plumber
For most toilet issues, this is a DIY repair. But call a plumber if:
- You replaced the flapper and the fill valve and it still runs
- You have multiple running toilets (could be household water pressure)
- You're planning a bathroom remodel and want new toilets installed properly
- A toilet is running AND you see water on the floor (could be a different issue — wax ring, cracked tank)
If you're in Salem, Keizer, or the Willamette Valley and want a plumber to handle it, call us at (503) 917-3259 — toilet repair and replacement is a standard call for us.
For bigger plumbing issues, see our home services page.
